Signs you need this
- Tub water climbs whenever someone flushes upstairs
- Gurgling from the sink after the washer drains
- Floor drain weeping or smelling of sewer gas
- Slow drains on more than one fixture
Kit on the van, and the method
- Drum auger with ¼–⅜ in. cable for 1½–2 in. branches
- Sectional machine and cutting heads for 3–4 in. mains
- Self-levelling camera and locator
- Trap wrenches, cleanout keys, drop sheets
Before we leave: Run several fixtures at once and watch the lowest drain for any rise.
How we know what is wrong
A repair begins with a camera inspection. We run a camera from the cleanout to the town connection and record the run, noting distance and depth at each defect. Clay laterals in older parts of Whitby tend to show offset joints and root intrusion. Cast iron from the mid-century can scale and crack along the bottom. Plastic lines from later subdivisions are more likely to show a belly, where soil settled under the pipe and water now pools.
You see the footage. We mark the trouble spots on a simple sketch of your property so the decision is made with the same picture we have.
Spot repair versus full run
One cracked section in an otherwise sound line can be dug and replaced on its own. That keeps the excavation short and the cost contained. A line with defects every few metres is a different case. Patching several holes in a failing pipe often costs close to a full replacement and leaves the remaining joints to fail later.
| Finding on camera | Usual direction |
|---|---|
| Single crack or broken joint | Spot repair at that location |
| Light roots at one joint | Clear, then reassess or repair the joint |
| Sag holding water over a short span | Re-bed and replace that span |
| Multiple failures along clay or cast iron | Replace the lateral end to end |
Clearing roots with hydro-jetting restores flow, but roots return to the same opening. Jetting is a maintenance step, not a cure for a broken joint.
Permits and locates
Nobody digs in your yard until the utility locates are marked. Gas, hydro, cable and phone lines often cross the same front yard as the sewer. Replacement of a building sewer typically falls under a plumbing permit with the Town of Whitby, and the new pipe is inspected before backfill. Our permit field note explains the general process. If the defect lies on the municipal side of the property line, the town handles that portion, and we help you report it.
Restoring the lawn
An open trench is unavoidable for a dug repair. We set sod aside where possible, stockpile soil on tarps, and backfill in compacted lifts so the trench does not sink by spring. Driveways and walkways cut during the work are rough-restored, and we tell you in advance if finished paving needs a separate trade. Landscaping over the line, such as gardens and small trees, should be discussed before work begins so nothing is a surprise.
Once the new section is in, we run the camera again and give you the footage, which is useful when you sell the house.
Asked on the phone
How long does a sewer repair take?
A single spot repair often finishes in a day once locates are complete. A full lateral replacement may take longer depending on depth and what sits above the line.
Can tree roots be stopped for good?
Roots follow moisture into open joints. Replacing broken sections with solvent-welded or gasketed pipe removes the opening they use.
Will I lose use of my toilets during the work?
For a few hours, yes. We tell you when the line will be open so you can plan around it.